One thing I’ve learned in my eight years as a beauty editor is that there’s rarely universal advice, especially when it comes to experts. What a dermatologist sees all day can be vastly different from what an aesthetician works on. Derms spend nearly a decade in school learning about ailments and skin concerns; aestheticians have their hands on a zillion different faces, seeing up close and personal how ingredients and products work. And we beauty editors, we’re a totally different beast, combining interviewing all of the above experts with years of product testing. We’re bound to have different ideas about what works and what doesn’t.
But I can confidently say that rarely does an expert waver on the benefits of retinol. It essentially speeds up your skin’s cell turnover, which helps to churn out brighter, smoother, clearer skin over time. This makes it a powerhouse for fine lines and wrinkles, uneven skin texture, and even acne, as the cell increase reduces dead skin from clogging your pores. It’s available by prescription from your doctor, but there are also over-the-counter options with a tempered strength. Although that doesn’t make it all that much less potent, choosing the right formula for your needs is imperative.
I asked a dermatologist and an aesthetician their go-to retinol formulas, based on what they’re most likely to recommend in the treatment room. Plus, I’m sharing my pick too (and I’ve been trying retinols for more than 10 years at this point).
Dermatologist Karan Lal, MD
“The best retinols are prescription grade, and my favorite is Arazlo, which is a strong retinoid lotion with an elegant vehicle, which is for sure going to change your skin without risking irritation. Over-the-counter retinol-wise, my go-to is Differin Adapalene 0.1% gel. This is a true retinoid, meaning it’s stronger and more stable than retinol. It works well for acne, acne scarring, and for collagen stimulation. It can be irritating at first, but with continued use—and pairing with a moisturizer—it will become your nightly favorite. It’s the strongest OTC retinol!”
Aesthetician Madalaina Conti
“My favorite vitamin A is by Environ. They really are some of the first pioneers in vitamin A, with over 30 years of research. A good place to start is the Skin EsseniA line. It’s a ‘step up’ system where you gradually increase potency. What makes it special is the fat-soluble ester form of vitamin A (called retinyl palmitate). It’s much gentler and less irritating/sensitizing yet still breaks down in the cell into retinoic acid, stimulating cell turnover and collagen production. Long term, it’s giving the same results as a prescription—but I argue it offers better results since you can use it twice per day as it increases your skin’s immunity vs. causing photosensitivity that typical retinols would. Game changer!”
Beauty editor Beth Gillette
I’ve been through a handful of tubes of this, which is surprising. For starters, it’s under $30, but mostly, it’s geared toward “beginners” to retinol. I’ve used retinol for nearly 15 years. You’d think I’d be keen on a high-potency formula. But Cocokind’s retinol gel takes a lot of fuss out of using such a strong ingredient. The formula is loaded with soothing ingredients that help calm down skin, and the gel texture doesn’t feel like it’s dehydrating my face on contact like a lot of retinol serums I’ve tried. It’s just so easy to use once or twice a week without interrupting my usual routine or hurting my skin barrier.
Meet the experts:
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Madalaina Conti is a licensed aesthetician in New York, NY, who focuses on holistic skin health and wellness.
Why trust Cosmopolitan?
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan with eight years of experience researching, writing, and editing hair, makeup, nail, and fragrance stories. She’s used retinol on her skin for 15 years, having tested virtually every over-the-counter (and prescription) version on her acne-prone, oily skin.
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